The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve cosmetics, but does have regulatory authority2. However, the line between cosmetics and drugs, as defined by the agency, can get blurry. A cosmetic is anything we smear, rub or otherwise apply to our bodies to clean ourselves or to change our appearance. A drug is a substance consumed in order to treat or mitigate a disease or condition3. Some cosmetics can be classified as drugs due to their intended use. For example, a substance marketed as an anti-aging moisturizer is a cosmetic, but if it claims to “boost collagen production” or “encourage growth of new skin cells” then you’re heading into drug territory.
The largest area of overlap between drugs and cosmetics is in products like anti-dandruff shampoo, sunscreens, and antiperspirants. These products fall into the category of over-the-counter (OTC) drugs, and as long as they adhere to predefined strengths, uses and applications, require no special approvals.
As with many regulatory bodies, the instigating event that led to the formation of the FDA, as we know now it, was a tragic one. 